I still remember the first time I saw Cinque Terre. It was the beginning of July 2019, not that long ago, if you think about it. It was also the first time I crossed the Italian border, and I was absolutely in love.

The Story

I was traveling with an Interrail Pass back then and had already visited Paris and Monte Carlo before reaching my first Italian stop - La Spezia, which became our base for visiting Cinque Terre.

It was July, the peak tourist season. The trains were absolutely packed, the small villages were overflowing with people, and temperatures went well above 30°C. And yet, I loved it. I was completely in love with my first Italian experience. I might be wrong, but I don’t think Cinque Terre was as popular back then. This was still before travel influencers fully took over every “Instagrammable spot.”

I went back to Cinque Terre in June 2024… and something about the magic was missing.

Cinque Terre Now

By the time I returned, I had already traveled across Italy and seen many beautiful and unique places. Early June is technically outside peak season, and we chose a weekday to avoid crowds, but it was still packed.

We stayed in La Spezia and traveled village by village by train, resisting (and admiring) the dramatic coastline with its colorful houses clinging to the cliffs.

Don’t get me wrong, Cinque Terre is still worth visiting. But in my opinion, it’s no longer a place worth staying for long. Compared to my 2019 experience, it felt more run down and had lost a bit of its charm.

So if I haven’t discouraged you too much and you’re still planning your trip, here are a few tips before you go:

Tips for Visiting Cinque Terre

• Go outside peak season. You’ll see more when you’re not packed in like a sardine.
• Travel by train. It’s the best and easiest way to move between villages, but again, avoid peak season if possible.
• Take a boat if you have time. It’s less crowded and gives you a completely different perspective of the coastline.
• Stay in La Spezia. It’s much cheaper, a beautiful town with plenty to offer, and you won’t get bored.

The Best Alternative to Cinque Terre (Just Around the Corner)

If you’re unsure whether you can handle the crowds of Cinque Terre and are staying in La Spezia, I have the perfect alternative for you.

San Terenzo – Lerici – Tellaro

Just south of La Spezia, you’ll find this stunning coastline, unique in its local feel, far less crowded, and honestly beautiful as hell. It has the same charm: narrow streets, colorful houses perched on cliffs, and plenty of unique spots to explore.

Transportation is slightly less convenient, as you can only get here by car or bus, but they run fairly often (at least by Italian standards) and are much cheaper.

San Terenzo

If you like saving the best for last, start by taking the bus from La Spezia to San Terenzo. Get off at the first stop and walk through the narrow streets down to Castello di San Terenzo. Next to the castle, you’ll find a small public beach - perfect for a swim or a short break.

From there, walk along the promenade and take a short hike up to Villa Marigola, which offers beautiful gardens and a stunning view over Lerici.

Depending on your energy level, either:

• take a bus to Lerici, or
• continue walking along the promenade (about 20–25 minutes from Villa Marigola)

Lerici

Lerici is the longest stop of the day — the Monterosso of my Cinque Terre alternative. You’ll find:

• many private beaches (with some public sections)
• plenty of restaurants and cafés for a spritz or espresso with a view

Good to know:

• You can reach Lerici by ferry from La Spezia
• You can also take ferries from Lerici to Portovenere and even Cinque Terre
• A must-do here is the short hike up to Castello San Giorgio di Lerici. Watching the waves crash against the castle walls from above is truly breathtaking.

From the castle, walk another 10 minutes uphill to Bellavista Panoramica for a full view of the town.

Another 15-minute walk from there (or take the bus to save your feet) brings you to Caletta di Levante, a small hidden beach if you fancy a swim.

Tellaro (The Cherry on Top)

No matter how you get there - bus, car, or walking (about 2.5 km / 30 minutes from Bellavista Panoramica) I recommend stopping along the way whenever it’s safe to do so, just to admire the views.

Tellaro is where I completely fell in love. So much so that I actually hesitated to include it here.

It feels like a place where time has stood still. I don’t know if we were just lucky, or if Instagram crowds haven’t discovered it yet—but this tiny village felt like a soul hug.

What makes Tellaro special:

• tiny streets where only one person can pass
• cats wandering around (my personal weakness)
• Oratorio di Santa Maria
• potted plants everywhere
• Portesone
• coastal walking paths
• incredible sunset views and panoramic views

I don’t think you need a Google Maps route here. Start at one end, get lost on purpose, walk every street, and just soak it in, especially during golden hour. Watch the sunset, then catch a bus back to La Spezia.

Quick Tips: Getting Around by Bus (La Spezia → Lerici Coast)

• ✔️ Best value: All-zone day ticket (Intera Rete Giornaliero)
• 💶 Costs around €7.50, valid until midnight
• 🔁 Unlimited rides on ATC buses
• 📍 Covers La Spezia → San Terenzo → Lerici → Tellaro → back
• 🥾 If you like walking, buy two single tickets (€2–3 each) and walk between villages (5–6 km total)
• 🛒 Buy tickets in advance from local shops or via the DropTicket app

Final Thoughts

If I only had one day in Liguria and had to choose between Cinque Terre and this alternative, I would go south.

Don’t get me wrong, I still see the charm and* uniqueness of Cinque Terre*. But if you’re looking for something less crowded, easier on your feet, and more authentic, this is it.

Also, don’t forget Portovenere, a hidden gem and an amazing alternative in its own right. But that’s a story for another time.

Enjoy your trip, and just know I’m very jealous you get to see these places for the first time.