That View of Portofino Was on My Mind… Should It Be on Yours?
I do wonder how many more people have put Portofino on their bucket list ever since Taylor Swift mentioned it in her song.
Yes, Portofino is a gem on its own, a beautiful village perched on the cliff, filled with colourful houses and classic Ligurian charm. When you first come across it while planning your trip, it really feels like the hidden gem. (That’s what I though)
But it is quite literally a gem, especially when you consider how difficult it is to reach and how expensive it can be.
Getting to Portofino: Not as Easy as It Looks
Portofino was a spontaneous stop on our trip. We were travelling by car, and one thing I know for sure is that I’d never try to reach Portofino by car again. The chances of actually driving into town are close to zero, and finding parking is almost impossible. You’d think parking rates of €10–15 per hour would scare people off, but no. Tourists are willing to pay, and that was before one of the biggest music stars in the world mentioned it in a song.
We tried to reach Portofino by car, and it was a huge mistake. The queue of cars attempting the same thing was unreal. The roads are narrow, extremely bendy, and shared with buses going back and forth. Add a lot of inexperienced drivers to the mix, and it quickly becomes stressful, and at times, unsafe. You’ll often see police managing traffic there on a daily basis, trying to control the chaos.
The Smarter Way to Visit Portofino
The best way to approach Portofino is to leave the car behind. Take a train to Santa Margherita Ligure, then choose one of three options:
- Bus to Portofino
- Boat/ferry (the most scenic option)
- Walk
Yes, walking is doable. It’s about 5.4 km and takes roughly 1 hour 15 minutes. However, if you walk along the main coastal road, be aware that halfway through the path ends and you’ll be walking directly on the street — which can be very busy during peak season.
A much better and safer option is to take the longer walking route through Portofino Natural Park, starting from Paraggi (you can reach Paraggi walking the coastline path). This trail runs above the main road and offers beautiful views while avoiding traffic. Look up Passeggiata dei Baci (Portofino trail).
Where to Base Yourself Instead
Portofino works well as a day trip, whether you’re coming from Genoa or La Spezia. But if you want to stay closer in the area, I’d strongly recommend Rapallo as a base.
Rapallo is a lovely coastal town with a relaxed atmosphere, a long seaside promenade, and both public and private beaches. It’s well connected by train, making it easy to explore Santa Margherita Ligure, Portofino, and even Cinque Terre as day trips. Unlike Portofino, Rapallo feels lived-in, less performative, and much easier on your budget — with more accommodation options, local restaurants, and space to simply enjoy the Ligurian coast without constant crowds.
Is Portofino Worth It?
Honestly? The best way to experience Portofino might be from the water.
A boat trip along the coastline gives you the full picture, the colourful houses, the dramatic cliffs, and the classic Ligurian beauty, without dealing with the overwhelming crowds. I’m not even sure I’d recommend getting off the boat unless you’re genuinely curious.
There isn’t much to do in Portofino beyond admiring it. It’s stunning, yes - but small, crowded, and expensive. Sometimes, seeing it from afar is enough to appreciate its uniqueness without losing the magic.
If you’re set on visiting Portofino, I would strongly recommend going outside of peak season. Late April, May, September, and even early October offer a completely different experience — fewer crowds, easier transport, and a chance to actually enjoy the place rather than just navigate it. In summer, especially July and August, Portofino can feel more like a theme park than a village.
Although if you are planning your trip to Portofino anyway, here are few hidden gems in the area worth visiting:
